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2015年9月27日星期日

Beer | 给精酿小白的五分钟速成手册

精酿小白的五分钟速成手册

撰文/王晨熙

前方高能预警,本篇是针对精酿小白的集中辅导,充满简单粗暴的概括定论,资深酒客请绕行。

目前精酿啤酒渐渐成为城中潮而时髦的话题,精酿酒吧也渐渐爬满了城中或显眼或静谧的角落。当平时跟你喝大绿棒撸串的酒友,突然有一天邪魅地问你是否要试试精酿啤酒?当你平日以来只喝香槟的高大上女上司突然有一天宣称她喜欢兰比克啤酒,当你看到连火锅店和串串香都放了满墙的进口啤酒,当你发现每周去的大众超市开始卖各国进口啤酒了,你是否感觉到需要抓紧补习的惊慌感?来来来,让王老师给你补一课吧。

首先我们来了解一下啤酒的悠久历史,据说最早苏美尔人就在喝啤酒了,在公元前3000年,啤酒技术已经很成熟了,当时酿造啤酒的都是女性。也有历史学家称金字塔的建造和啤酒也分不开,因为当时劳工每天的工资就是啤酒,不过当时的啤酒并没有啤酒花的加入。在一两个世纪之前,由于欧洲的水源很差,由于啤酒花的防腐作用,让啤酒成为仅有的安全又廉价的水源之一,所以被称为“液体面包”。之后经过酿造技术的变革,各个国家的啤酒开始百花齐放。先说德国,1516年,巴伐利亚地区开始实行《啤酒纯酿法》(Rheinheitsgebot),即在酿造过程中只可以使用水、麦芽和酒花,后来才允许使用酵母。法律限制了人们的想象力和创造力,使德国的啤酒趋同性很强。作为小白,你首先要了解的是啤酒大国比利时,他们的酿酒历史悠久(大约5000年),小小的国家有近180家酒厂,包括6家闻名于世的修道院酒厂(世界共有11家)。曾有啤酒专家说美国是能喝到最好啤酒的国家,尤其是废除禁酒令之后,美国的啤酒经济得到迅猛发展百花齐放。现在美国已经有近2000家酿酒厂,并创造了众多美式的啤酒风格。

那么,什么是啤酒?最简单说来主要是水、酵母、麦芽和啤酒花的“神奇”结合,当然现代还会出现小麦、各种香料,甚至可以加入任何意想不到的食品原料。 你要推翻“啤酒就是跟水一样,酒精度3-4度” 的误解。虽然我们是简单粗暴的课堂,但是内容也不能太粗糙,靠颜色划分的黑啤白啤黄啤就极其粗暴且没有任何科学依据,顶多识别色盲有点用处(这是胡咧咧了)。可能因为中国人心中根深蒂固的“德国酒最好”的印象过于深刻,现在我们要一改心中的执念,从头再来(现在进精酿酒吧就开口要德国黑啤会被人嘲笑的好么?)。

啤酒的种类其实很多,根据全美啤酒节(The Great American Beer Festival)比赛上的划分,就有92个啤酒分类,涵盖了下面的145种啤酒风格。这么多,怎么记呢?其实啤酒从大类上可以分两种,拉格(lager)和艾尔(ale),有什么区别呢?发酵方法的区别。(如图)简单来说,拉格则是底部发酵,艾尔是顶部发酵;通常说来拉格发酵温度较低,麦香浓郁,酒精度相对低;而艾尔发酵的温度较高,会有更多花香果香,酒精度也略高。除了这两种之外,还有野生酵母发酵和混合发酵的啤酒。


举例子细说,我们普通市面上的绿棒子是淡色拉格,也有很多人称之为工业拉格,以区分精酿啤酒的定义。工业生产过程中为了降低成本,也会加入大米、玉米等谷物,代表品牌是百威、雪花、青岛、燕京等。拉格的其他精酿小类有皮尔森Pilsner(比如BitburgerKönig PilsenerPilsner Urquell),博克Bock (Ayinger Celebrator),德国深色啤酒Schwarzbier(传说中的“黑啤”)(Köstritzer Schwarzbier)等等。
之后说艾尔, 首先是淡色艾尔PA,会比拉格有更多的果香以及烤面包味,比如Firestone Walker PASierra Nevada PA。提到艾尔就不能不提印度淡色艾尔IPA,据说18世纪为了海上航行,酿酒师们不得不大量加入啤酒花来保证啤酒不会腐败,之后由于酒花气味浓烈被更多的人接受,风靡世界。可以尝试Stone IPA, Dogfish Head 60 Minute IPA等。棕色艾尔Brown Ale,比淡色艾尔多了烘烤味,酒花没有那么重,显色呈现琥珀色,比如Newcastle Brown AleSamuel Adams Brown Ale。之后说波特Porter和从中发展出来的世涛Stout,都使用了烟熏麦芽来带给啤酒更浓郁的口感和更深的颜色,颜色是棕色到黑色,苦度低到中高,非常适合搭配烧烤和烟熏食品。著名的健力士Guinness就属于干型世涛,还可以尝试8 wired iStoutFuller’s London PorterLeft Hand Milk Stout, Rogue Shakespeare Stout, North Coast Old No.38等。

最后唠叨几个必须要提到的风格,顶部发酵的小麦啤酒wheat beer/weizen/weisse,主要使用小麦酿造,用部分大麦平衡口感,颜色从淡色到深金黄。泡沫顺滑,质地紧凑。比如福佳Hoegaarden WitCelis White等。修道院艾尔Trappist/修道院风格艾尔Abbey,目前销售量最大的是智美Chimay,分红标、白标和蓝标。如果有幸能够尝到修道院啤酒的登顶之作限量版Westvleteren12号的话,人生会是圆满的。塞森Saison,也叫季节啤酒。据说源于比利时的法语区,是农家酿酒坊为了农场工人酿造的,这种风格的酵母能够忍受很高的发酵温度(32度以上),颜色金黄或呈琥珀色,口感干爽,带有复杂的麦芽、啤酒花和橙味。可以尝试比利时的Saison Dupont,还有美国North Coast Le Merle也很惊艳。

啤酒风格太多,知识也浩瀚如大海,这里恕王老师无法列举得尽善尽美。喝而优则自己动手的资深酒客们,已经开始钻研自酿啤酒并参加家酿大赛了,个中学问太多,待我下次细数一二吧。

声明:以上所列举的啤酒大多数在酒吧和啤酒店都能找得到,跟本人没有任何经济利益关系。

小知识:
世界上目前有11家修道院酿酒厂,其中6家在比利时,2家在荷兰,其余奥地利、意大利和美国各一家。
修道院啤酒:1)酒厂需要在修道院内;2)僧侣需要参与到生产中;3)销售所得必须用于修道院运营和社会活动中。

以下是11家修道院啤酒品牌
比利时:Rochefort         罗斯福,Westmalle西麦尔, Westvleteren/St Sixtus威斯特佛兰德伦, Chimay智美,Orval金谷,Achel阿诗
荷兰: La Trappe
奥地利:Stift Engelszell
美国:St. Joseph’s Abbey
荷兰:Zundert       

意大利:Tre Fontane Abbey

本文在《创意世界creativity》2015年07期 总第79期发表。

2015年9月19日星期六

Beer & Wine | 啤酒爱好者的APP推荐(亲测)

撰文/王晨熙

身为刚刚接触精酿啤酒的人,站在上百种啤酒的大冰柜面前,却不知道从何下手?
每次去酒局,喝了很多酒,宿醉一场起来,却不记得喝了哪些?
知道自己有很多酒很想喝,但到了酒吧却一点都想不起来?
喜欢品酒的人,却苦于没有自己的品鉴手册进行横纵对比?
下面介绍的这几款当中,总会有你想找的!

收费APP

Beer Buddy- Barcode Scanner

好多人心目中的No.1,是精酿啤酒权威网站之一的RateBeer.com公司开发的,在国外备受推崇。有超过30万种啤酒的资料库和超过百万的读者评价。棕黑色的背景,本身就看上去很权威。有扫码功能,点进去就有该啤酒名称、酒厂,还有大大的分数。其他信息还需要点开看。评分时,特意添加了美国权威啤酒评分机制,有香气、外观、口感、回味和总体评分。能够选择查看你喝过的啤酒档案,还能分享给朋友,推荐你的啤酒。能够搜索附近的酒吧、酒厂、餐馆等。还能在上面看到评分最高的前50种啤酒、季节最热门的前50、不同类别的前50、不同国家的前50等各种榜单。
(提示:这款软件界面有英文、中文、荷兰文、法文、德文、日文、韩文甚至越南文)
推荐指数:四颗星
价格:25


RateBeer

这款app也是RateBeer公司开发的,跟BeerBuddy比起来,我更倾向于这款RateBeer,因为更简洁,啤酒各项信息更加一目了然(处女向发作)。这款app的内容和网站的差不多。有啤酒描述、评分、酒精度、风格类型、产地、苦度,甚至还有卡路里。比网站多了扫码功能,你可以在啤酒下面自己打分,能签到,也能浏览世界各地人们的酒评,建立自己的啤酒资料库。同时也有签到功能(签自己和看朋友们在哪喝酒),寻找周围酒吧,按地址、距离寻找酒吧等功能。还有愿望清单,下次到酒吧,可以一键获取上次看了没喝的啤酒(太方便了)。这个app上面也有BeerBuddy的各种榜单。
推荐指数:四颗星
价格:25


免费APP


这款app是最权威的网站之一beeradvocate.com开发出来的,走的也是简洁风,白底的界面很清爽,跟网站内容一致。选择哪个啤酒之后,一目了然能看到啤酒的外观、网友评分、网站评分、描述等。还能直接打分以及一键选择是刚喝过还是想要喝。但是更严肃,因为无法自己把图传上去,所以朋友间的交互性也小了很多。
推荐指数:三星
价格:免费


这一个是免费app中的战斗机。该有的都有了:能点评啤酒,能打分数,能够添加微酿/家酿啤酒,号召一些酒友加进来之后,能够互相点赞叫好,能搜索附近酒吧、附近热门的啤酒。而且目前国内微酿酒厂的啤酒信息也很全。还能通过foursquare签到(不要变成变相查岗工具哦),能分享到twitterfacebook上面。在你喝够一定数量的某种类型啤酒的时候,还会给你发徽章,激励你继续喝喝喝(我会告诉你,我的徽章已经超140了么呵呵呵)。
而且在看到朋友们每天无线晒啤酒,peer pressure下,难保你不想赶紧冲到厨房打开一瓶冰啤酒,(小编每日的晒酒活动,就迫使了一个朋友买了手机….为了能拍照晒酒)。而且在你拿不准的情况下,也能搜索名称,看看评分如何,再决定购买。不过因为各人口味不同,同一款酒的评分差异还是很大。

安卓系统明显没有IOS系统顺畅,会出现闪退情况,并且页面也没有IOS友好(不明白为什么要费事开发两套系统)。

价格:免费



故名思意,“下一杯”就是要帮你解决下一杯喝啥的难听。这个app横跨两大品类:啤酒和葡萄酒。号称只要拍下酒标,就能出现评分和各种信息,比如产地、酒精度、糖度和卡路里等。在国外还是好评如潮的,因为面对整墙的啤酒和葡萄酒,还真是挺难选择的呢。而且只要五次打分,就能基于评分建立偏好资料库。这款app也不缺分享功能,喝完还是可以分享到各大社交媒体上的。
唯一不方便的是,IOS和安卓版都需要翻墙,因此减了半颗星,只好把这款神器推荐给东八区以外的读者们。
推荐指数:三星
价格:免费


当然,你还可以靠timeout或者foursquare寻找附近酒吧。


总结:本酒鬼这么多年尝试了很多软件,翻墙与不翻墙的都试过。软件当然还是花钱的更好用,平民app也能凑合使,只是用户体验和信息量的区别。只是所有的app大都是英文界面,英文捉急的人可能要费点功夫,不过,还有什么能挡住酒鬼呢?同时呼吁,这是商机啊!我们需要一款喝完能分享到国内社交平台的app,请加油开发啊!

2015年7月29日星期三

Beer Journal | Beijing Autumn Craft Beer Festival 2014

October 16, 2014
When I woke up and dragged the curtain in the morning on October 10th, I almost thought I was blind, because I couldn’t tell was the pollution so severe or just was it just because of the green net covering the whole residential building, blocking my eyesight. Well, it’s the fourth day in a row with PM2.5 index over 350. Everyone on the street looks so dead inside.

I was struggling whether to open the windows and let the PM2.5 kill my lungs or just keep the windows shut and be suffocated from the thick CO2. Thanks to an article I read the other day, in a bedroom without new air, the CO2 can reach 1000ppm (from 200ppm) over night.

Stretched a little and headed to East Hotel at 3pm.


And the organizer (not saying slow boat) knew how to make a 5’8’’ girl feel she’s a dwarf, when I was standing on a table and still couldn’t reach the top of the tent to zip down the zipper. Thanks to Ollo and Jeremy, they easily pulled that little bastard down without any struggle or shakiness. Trust me, whenever you feel you’re tall, put yourself surrounded by Germans, all of a sudden you’ll find the feeling of you’re an adolescent again among those senior buddies, no need to run all the way and burn a lot at the Disney Lands. With those gentlemen’s help, the tent was ready.

It was good to see all the people who are as much beer lover as the person right next to them.   




[From 4 to 10pm…
Let’s start from the Calvin Beer, Calvin went to Hefei as an exchange student and started to brew. His father and grandfather all brewed…Calvin tried his best to express his charisma to attract people to the untraversed area, he brought three beers. I gave this b-day boy a T-shirt as a gift. His assistant put his hands up and shouted out “Welcome to Calvin Beer!” every ten minute, looks like people in sacred rituals. They use Speidel equipment, should be very stable flavor, Bourbon Barrel Porter tasted thick.

Then Nbeer Pub, I like their ideas about the name. “NB” means bad-ass in Chinese. And Nbeer also reminds people of new beers. Oatmeal Stout out of five other beers has lower ABV and IBU, which is good to drink a lot during the day.





Slow Boat is also the organizer of this festival, which brought eight beers here; two of them were sold out at the first day. Personally I like Double IPA and Imperial Pumpkin Stout very much.

Great Leap Brewery had four beers on tap; Beat the landlord barley wine was very impressive, with ABV over 11.2%, but very smooth and sweet with hardly noticeable sense of ethanol, it was so drinkable that you wouldn’t know until you got drunk already. Kevin told me they only sell this 310ml cup at the tap house. I’d say we should put a sign of “Danger” with this beer. I tried Three Door Tripel before, it also looks like a hard candy with such fresh sweetness, citrus aromas and light body, but believe me; you won’t survive from three whole cups. 

Harvest Brewing Co. from Chengdu has a famous brewer who used to be a DJ in Beijing. They brought four beers here. At the second day, all the tents were ready except them, Gao Yan pretended to be the bartender and sent out their beers for fun.

There’s another shining star of this festival--the Boxing Cat Brewery, just look at the badges and awards on the background. The Brew-master Michael Jordan with his team came from Shanghai and brought six beers with them. I tried Mao Mat Lager, the body was light and strong aroma of lemon grass which reminded me of days in Thailand. I had sushi with Kyle who is the brewing assistance of Michael, we found that Mao Mat matched this well.

Master Gao played yo-yo around the tent, which made the tent was surrounded by a lot of people.



Jing A always knows how to be creative and get attention, they brought their egg cart here with keg of airpocolypse beer on it, and it worked. They also released the Guizhou smoked chili porter which was co-brewed with Huoli from Beijing Homebrew Society.

No. 18 Brewery carried the metal frame from Wuhan, and all the decoration was mystery with all black-and-white style, which reminded me of Taoism or Tai ji. The Break Stout was with strong notes of coffee and baking breads, which is definitely my kind of breakfast. Karl told me they used imported malts, which was worth. They also had the temporary tattoos “無啤不欢”(means no beers, no friends), which made them became one of three tattoo places at this festival. (The othr two were Jing A and Calvin Beer both using their logos as tattoos.)


Then we tried the Strong Ale Works from Qingdao, their Shuangku IPA was worth to try.



That’s Beijing and the Beer Link were the only two media tents. At the Beer Link tent, we tried to ask people scan the QR code and got free raffles for T-shirts, badges, cups or even growlers. But sometimes it turned out that the lucky draws were slaughtered by guards here. They pushed each other with bashful but greedy grins, came up to the stool, brazenly kept on asking more chances to have a draw.


Last but not least were two tents of Beijing Homebrew Society; actually half of it should belong to iBrew. Other than devoting ciders and perries to lovely girls, by any random chance or maybe the German guy Brandon think he MUST also devote his tent and share with the society, he just did. It was so crowded in front of BHS tent. Those home-brewer were so funny, some of them even displayed grapes and apples. And Huoli shared his original Chili porter with me, cough cough, it contained more than three times of chili than Jing A version. (He used Xiaomi chili, which was considered one of the spicies chilis here.) I also like Ollo’s Blackmail IPA, with strong smoky sense. Yob’s Orange Goblin was spicy as always.

Normally we also met a lot of interesting people during the festival. A man standing in front of our tent tried to give out a long speech; I asked my friend, “Do you understand what he said?”” No, did you?”” Not even a clue.” He used to be the first importer of all the soda beverages in China, now he imports Czech and sells them to Tsing Tao. As a person who has been in this industry for over 20 years, we newbies were so naïve in his eyes.


After 12 hours of standing and talking, I still felt alive; it must be, because beers are my true love.

When I was folding the lucky draw tokens, the pop music from next tent suddenly let a thought rush through my mind, “this moment is life”. With the friends around me, the beers and the music made it being here like in a dream, these are the reasons that I want to stay here. Even though in the movie “Spirited Away” by Miyazaki Hayao, there’s a philosophy A train in the sunset symbolizes the passage from life to death.


In the last 30 minutes of the festival, Ollo and I ended up sitting in the vacant tent in total silence, the only sign to show we were alive was my chest still going up and downs, and the red light of his electronic pipe was flickering. A lot of drunk people or trying-to-get-drunk people walked by, some of them stared at us, had a glance of the total vacant background behind us in the bright fluorescent lamp. I broke the ice, “they might think we’re doing performing arts”. After a slow exhale of the pipe, “we should charge them 5 yuan to watch us”, he said seriously through a rising cloud of some white smoke, reminding me of The Caterpillar from Alice in Wonderland. I am so blessed to hang out with people with a sense of humor. Ollo continues, “When will you start to brew?” Actually, I have no idea. Since I got the news that I had to say farewell to the city that I lived for nine years, every plan about future becomes so complicated. “You’ve tasted our beers; and you have to pay the debts back.” He said with the long face. True, that’s the debt I have to pay back. After an embarrassed laugh or two, I made my way with the materials into the dreamy haze.  /The End.

2015年7月27日星期一

About Me


Tracy Wang is a travelling foodie and passionate writer especially about craft beers and fine wines.

She's the executive editor for The Beer Link Magazine, contributor and associate editor for Precis Magazine and picked up homebrewing in 2014 (Don’t tell me you didn’t try the ladies-co-brew Tart Tomboy Ale and Golden Wave Amber Ales on Women’s Day at the Slow Boat for the Starfish Foundation). She’s ambitious on keeping track of every beer she samples with taken a photo of it and taking notes. Recently, she’s busying in preparing to be the only female beer judge and very first one to get hammered at Shanghai 2nd National Homebrew Competition in June.


And she's still waiting for the alien mothership to get her home. If you meet her on any of the beer festival or in any craft beer bars, go on, buy her a beer!


2015-6